Coffee Cherries on tree
Urth Caffé Master Roaster Zachary Fogel Personally Visits Sustainable and Regenerative Farms in Ethiopia
Urth Caffé's Master Roaster Zachary Fogel has sourced exclusive and exceptional new coffee from a very special farm called Suke Quto, located in the Guji region of Ethiopia. Like all of Urth's heirloom (non-GMO) organic coffees, the coffee from Suke Quto goes through a rigorous vetting process before making it to our cafés, and ultimately to your cup. These beautiful coffees are certified both Organic, and Rainforest Alliance. We are proud and excited to share with you both the washed and the natural process coffees from farm Suke Quto.
Urth Caffé will be using both the washed and natural Suke Quto in some of our blends, including the Urth Rainforest™ and Urth Dolce™ Espresso. These very special beans have cupping notes of floral, orange, peach, chocolate—and are well balanced with juicy acidity and a long, sweet finish (for the washed). And floral, berry, citrus, cherry, chocolate—and are fruity and sweet with winey acidity and a long, sweet finish (for the natural).
Suke Quto farm was born out of devastating bushfires and one man's belief and intention to rebuild, give back to the land and his people and to restore ecological balance in the Guji region of Ethiopia. Owner and farmer Tesfaye Bekele, who comes from a coffee farming family, started his career working in Natural Resource and Environmental Protection (an Ethiopian governmental agency). After these devastating fires he was asked to solve the problem of deforestation, and he did so by planting coffee seedlings, to help the people rebuild their livelihoods.
Urth Caffé Master Roaster, Zachary Fogel and Tesfaye Bekele on his regenerative farm, Suke Quto in the Guji region of Ethiopia.
"I came with the idea to replant the forests and also add coffee trees to enhance diversity." Says, Tesfaye. When told that coffee seedlings took 4-5 years to mature and to produce ripe cherries, none of the local residents were interested in that type of farming. And so Tesfaye quit his job and planted coffee trees. The rest is history. After seeing the abundant first harvest Tesfaye was able to grow using natural and sustainable methods, local residents soon followed, planting many more farms in the region. "First, they run away, but later they came back and asked me to provide coffee seedlings. I am very proud of this idea because all the farms you see today in Guji are inspired by the Suke Quto Farm."
Tesfaye Bekele's farm is located in the highlands and valleys of the Odo Shakisso Woreda, on mineral-rich volcanic soil, and produces some of the best coffees in the world—which are all naturally heirloom and organic. Because of the traditional growing practices, the coffee in the Guji region is "organic by default," and certified organic as well—with Rainforest Alliance and Organic certifications.
Left: Farmer and Owner Tesfaye Bekele on his farm Suke Quto in the Guji region of Ethiopia.
Right: Picking coffee cherries on the Suke Quto farm.
Says Zachary Fogel, "One thing I've noticed, and which continues to impress me about Tesfaye's coffees is the way that they tend to get better over time. Something about the resting period between harvest and roasting is beneficial. The coffee stabilizes after its long journey from the Ethiopian highlands to the west coast, and flavors become clearer and more articulate."
Coffee drying on beds in the sun at the Suke Quto farm.
Ethiopia is considered the birthplace of coffee and therefore all coffee trees are naturally considered heirloom in that they are native to the region, are from original seedlings and have not been genetically modified in any way. What makes coffee from the Guji region even more exceptional is the mineral-rich volcanic soil in which they are grown.
Coffees are classified according to the attributes of the region they are grown in, such as Guji, Yirgacheffe or Sidamo. While in Ethiopia, Zachary spent seven days visiting farms in Addis Ababa, Hawasa, Sudama, Yirgacheffe and Guji. Finally settling on the Guji farm and their exceptional beans for Urth Caffé. He spent two weeks total visiting farms and valued suppliers, and was able to photograph some of the farms, the farmers, and the drying process of the fresh-picked coffee beans—either washed or natural (which we will get to later).
Left: Picking coffee cherries at Suke Quto farm.
Right: Beds of coffee that have been drying in the sun - protected from moisture and the elements during the night.
The main objective was to procure and purchase coffee from farms that are practicing good stewardship of the lands. Which is why he chose beans from the Suki Quto farm in the Guji region of Ethiopia.
Left: Tesfaye Bekele holding a basket of just picked coffee seeds on his farm in Guji, Ethiopia.
Right: Sorting coffee cherries - "natural" method.
Tesfaye Bekele produces coffee using sound sustainable and regenerative methods and his motivation is to preserve the forest and prevent deforestation. Tesfaye always makes sure that varieties are planted to prevent people from burning or clearing the land. Burning or clearing is detrimental in the long run, as it destroys the natural ecological balance of the forest.
Tesfaye manages the land and is savvy and dedicated to this stewardship. For example, if a tree falls in the forest, it is not cleared. Tesfaye lets it decay naturally, so it produces microbiomes naturally. All coffees are 100% organic and Tesfaye's mission is to prove you can use growing coffee as a means to preserve the forest and that deforestation is not a necessary byproduct of coffee farming. He has a pure approach—integrating the farm within the forest.
There are two forms of drying processes for freshly-picked coffee cherries: The natural process and the washed—each producing a slightly different flavor profile.
During the natural drying process (as used in Urth's Suke Quto natural), fresh-picked coffee beans are sorted, then dried whole (skin on) for up to two weeks or longer on large drying beds. Natural coffee drying (and the natural fermentation process that ensues) is the oldest method of processing and drying coffee. It is not as commonly used a drying practice today because it is more reliant on uncontrollable variables such as the weather. It is a wild type of fermentation—as the coffee seed is able to access the yeast naturally from the fruit and skin of the cherry. Natural coffees tend to be a bit more earthy in flavor.
Washed coffee, in comparison, is a much more commonly used practice and is a much more controlled form of fermentation. The coffee cherry is extracted using a pulper machine and is placed in a large container or vat with water and ferments in the open air, accessing any available wild yeast for the fermentation process. They are dried on raised beds for up to two days. Washed coffees tend to have a brighter acidity and smooth finish. You can find out more about the harvesting, choosing and cupping of Urth Caffé's very special and fine coffees in this blog.
Left: "Natural" processed coffee nearing the end of the drying process - Suke Quto farm.
Right: Coffee washed and drying on beds - "washed" process.
Thus, coffee is a living, breathing thing. And when allowed to ripen, mature and develop properly, exceptional flavors can be coaxed out and enjoyed in your morning cup.
The last step is the roasting process, and Zachary has roasted these two exceptional beans to perfection—coaxing out nuanced and exceptional flavors for you to enjoy.
"We are really proud to have this coffee and be working with a farmer of Tesfaye's stature and supporting organic coffee farming and forest preservation in Ethiopia."
-Urth Caffé Master Roaster, Zachary Fogel
Left: Urth Caffé Master Roaster, Zachary Fogel.
Right: Golden Hour in Ethiopia - sun setting over hills and farm.
And Urth Caffé is proud to bring this coffee to you!
Written by: Lisa Mouhibian